I blinked. “What do you mean you flew in this lobster from Boston?” That was how my evening at the Silver Waves Restaurant on the 36th floor of the Chatrium Riverside Hotel Bangkok began. “Wait, you mean you put a fruit salad inside of a New England lobster?” Chef Wilach Hemuthai answered my questions with a chuckle and a knowing smile–even though I’m certain that he thought most of the answers were obvious. He knew why we were here and he had prepared.
This December, the Silver Waves restaurant will feature a revamped menu with two new entrees and a special, December-only item: Boston lobster fruit salad. The chef’s top 3 recommendations are…
Boston lobster fruit salad
The lobster really knocked my head off. Presented beautifully on the platter, the carapace and flesh were a basket to a cornucopia of fruits: mango, cantaloupe, pineapple, and watermelon. The fresh, sweet lobster flesh paired well with the fruits presented in the dish and, though I expected otherwise, the watermelon was the stand-out. The chef somehow maintained the watermelon’s signature crunch and juiciness even after dousing the whole plate with a special, house-crafted sauce. The sauce is a blend of mayonnaise, honey, and condensed milk, and its contribution to the flavor profile impressed me because it reminded me of a fruit salad that you would make back home. But, instead of being merely passable, it was amazing. The sweet, springy lobster flesh contrasted well with the crunchy, citrusy flavors of the fruits. It was light and heavy at the same time, you’d find yourself craving more even as your buttons strain against your expanding belly. But, it’s not my favorite.
Pan-fried scallops with turnip cakes and X.O. sauce
These are my favorite. I can taste them even as I write this entry: savory and buttery, the flavor pops most when you first bite into it – like your teeth are puncturing a thin skin before flooding your mouth with flavor. The turnip cakes too, salty and spongy, came alive when eaten with the scallops. The star of the dish was, of course, the X.O. sauce or should I say, the Thai X.O. sauce. The chef sourced high-quality ingredients for his sauce from China and, once they were in his hands, he blended them with traditional Thai spices to fuse the flavors. While X.O. is already spicy, it is now Thai spicy, and, for a moment, I swore that someone had figured out how to make molasses spicy: thick, darkly sweet and smoky when spiciness sears the back of your throat. The sauce beautifully complements the scallops and the turnip cakes, crafting a full flavor profile. You not only feel full when you eat these scallops, you feel satisfied.
Wok-fried snow fish
Light as air and delicately flavored, the snow-fish was a great way to round out the first two, much heavier meals. Two filets, lightly battered and seasoned with salt, presented on a long, rectangular plate. A satisfying crunch and the filet yields to you but hold on – you’re not done yet. A touch of nam phrik, or the spicy, chili-based, hot sauces native to Thailand, and suddenly the dish is full of surprises! The nam phrik is the perfect vehicle for enticing the subtler flavors from the snow fish, such as a vein of savory sweetness or this oily flavor originally masked by being wok-fried. It is last, but it is no slouch compared to the other two.
Even though the décor of the Silver Waves restaurant is subtle and muted, evoking ideas of Chinese porcelain and moonlight on silver waters, the food is the opposite: proud, powerfully flavored and proud of its origins. It’s wonderful to see a restaurant strive to stand-out when it would be easier to just serve the same tired old menu items as every other hotel. If you’re in Bangkok and want a romantic dinner with a view, come to the Silver Waves. Be careful, though, you may forget the skyline and your date for your plate.
The Silver Waves Chinese restaurant is perched at Chatrium Riverside Hotel Bangkok on the 36th floor, offering incredible views of the Chao Praya and Bangkok. Everything from the décor to the dinnerware draws its inspiration from China but, more importantly, our food is authentic. Try our homemade dim-sum or specialty Peking duck prepared by our Chinese Chef. Bring your friends – we welcome large private parties.
Hours of Operation:
Lunch 11:30 am to 2:30 pm
Dinner 6:00 pm to 10:30 pm
Reservation +66 (0) 2307 8888 Ext. 1948